Chet Lo Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Chet Lo’s stratospheric rise in recent years has been fueled, in part, by his popularity among a certain contingent of Gen Z idols. (His spiky, see-through knit is regularly spotted by Dua Lipa, Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner). at least a dozen paraphernalia of the latter city’s underground nightlife, all decked out in her head-to-toe sherbet-colored popcorn tops and skirts.

They may have had a shock, however, when the zen-like atmosphere of Lo’s track prelude – the dark performance space scented with burning incense and accompanied by the soothing sounds of a gong bath – came to a head. ended abruptly, as bright white lights flickered on. to a thunderous techno soundtrack. (The transition was so invigorating that a few attendees visibly jumped.) Still, it was a neat introduction to the joyous clash of cultures that underpins Lo’s aesthetic and makes him more than the creator of an unmistakable piece. — and its chopped-and-screwed mix of Y2K raver chic mixed with playful nods to its East Asian heritage was expressed here in its most fully realized form yet.

The sound bath intro was perhaps a more literal reference to Lo’s cultural background, but his upbringing was also woven through the collection elsewhere in more subtle ways. Inspired by a Buddhist tale Lo’s father told him as a child, in which a sea of ​​arrows are shot in the direction of the Buddha to metamorphose into flowers, Lo added a series of clingy knit looks with cutouts curves intended to create a cut effect. inspired by the marks left by whistling arrows. (As a more understated riff on its spiky durian fruit textures, anyone drawn to Lo’s vision — but not bold enough to wear its most outrageous pieces — will find relief here.)

That’s not to say Lo hasn’t given in to her more flamboyant instincts as well, especially in the accessories department. His eye for upside-down proportion shone through in a series of Chinese conical hats rendered in his signature thistle fabrics, while balloon-shaped bags slung over the models’ shoulders like huge medieval barbed clubs. Another homage to Lo’s childhood spent accompanying her parents to temples came in the abstract lotus flower designs on ribbed partings and, in a dramatic punch, integrated as gloopy, gelatinous pinned embellishments. to transparent white dresses and crown models ‘ Hair.

It was encouraging to see Lo evolve and present a broader and more robust offer this season; a clear basis for the future of its brand. But as London Fashion Week’s penultimate show of this season, Lo’s boundless energy, celebration of the city’s subcultures and willingness to lean a little crazy also captured what the British capital’s fashion scene is doing its best, even in the face of uncertainty caused by the period of national mourning over the past 10 days. Taking a sprint down the track at the end of the show, Lo’s club-kid sidekicks burst into a chorus of approval — one that was fully deserved.

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